All the countries of the Middle East argue over who invented the chickpea snack. The inaugural London falafel festival gave fans the chance to compare – and the Egyptians won
Perhaps it takes the diplomatic neutrality of an international pulse organisation to deal with the global falafel feud. The subject of who “owns” these savoury fried delights has been consuming the Middle East for many years – part of the wider politics of who stole what from whom, and on par with the notorious hummus wars. However, the pulse people aren’t taking sides – they are just pushing the pulses. To which end, the Global Pulse Federation (yes, I checked, it’s real) hosted the inaugural London falafel festival at Borough market last Sunday, as part of what the UN has decreed to be the International Year of Pulses (again, yes). It’s all about the pulses as a force for good – a nutritious, sustainable and affordable good, to be more precise.
Daniel Young, the food critic and writer who hosted the event, says that falafels, while potentially healthy, are now in the category of “dude food” – like tacos, cheese burgers or fried chicken, they are all about moreish, tasty, non-virtuous eating. “Impulse food, instant excitement,” he says. I’m not sure about this claim, but falafels have been wildly popular across the Middle East for some time. I’m often amused at the speed with which two people from that region, discussing travels to Beirut, say, or to Cairo, get on to the pressing matter of where to find the best falafel.
Related: How to cook the perfect falafel
Continue reading...